1st Century roofs in Galilee were usually flat, consisting of timber beams (usually sycamore or cypress) set into the walls about 2-2½ meters over the floor, supporting branches or reeds which retained thick layers of earth plaster.

While this general concept was clarified relatively early in the project, specific questions about the materials and techniques used to construct flat earthen roofs remained unanswered. For example, what size and how far apart should the logs be? How was the roof plaster formulated and applied?

For these details, ethno-archaeological surveys were conducted of Arab villages where traditional flat earthen roofs could still be found. We examined houses which are being rapidly replaced by modern construction, and conducted numerous interviews of those who recall having built them. There were many different opinions as to the best way to construct flat earthen roofs, but we had to answer most questions ourselves by building these roofs at Nazareth Village.

Placing the beams of wood, which are basically trunks of cypress trees, as an initial stage of building the roof

Placing the beams of wood, which are basically trunks of cypress trees, as an initial stage of building the roof


Tree trunks of relatively straight, durable and available timber (usually cypress) are trimmed, debarked, and their extremities painted with hot tar to resist decay. These are set halfway into the wall masonry, and slightly graded to direct rainwater into house cisterns.

Man standing on the roof looking down into the house Fine-placing the beams of wood on top of the walls Fine-placing the beams of wood on top of the walls

Roof Caneing trials

Abundant and fast growing stands of natural cane provided a highly favored roofing material for ancient builders. Such cane was certainly available to First Century Nazareth, as the name of the adjacent village of Kfar Kana suggests. Cane mats woven together offer a strong and lightweight framework to retain the earthen component of the roof. As such roofing styles have gone out of fashion, we were unable to employ roofers experienced with using this material. Only after building several trial roofs of timber/cane construction did we feel confident enough to proceed.

Collecting the cane that will be used in the roof Assembling the cane panels on top of the beams of wood in preparation for pouring the mud on top

Mark Goodman, the reconstruction specialist, holding a finished cane panel that will be used in the roof

Mark Goodman, the reconstruction specialist, holding a finished cane panel that will be used in the roof


To retain the bottom of the roof, 2-3 cm thick canes are set across timbers in overlapping mats, bounded together with natural fiber (kitan). The cane is set flush to the wall but not inset, to avoid weakening the wall.

The walls are then built up over the timbers to secure them, and also create a parapet wall around the roof. The parapet will help retain the roof and also make it a safer place for the many household activities which took place there.

Assembling the cane on top of the beams of wood is almost finished

A layer of wet roof plaster is then applied over the caneing. This plaster – a mixture of earth, straw, and lime – will help cement the cane together and provide a firm footing for the upper layers of plaster.

The first layer of mud in poured on top of the cane panels

A mixture of dry earth, ash, and chalk is then poured over the plaster just as it begins to stiffen up. This layer, usually 10-15 cm thick, constitutes the bulk of roof plaster and is applied dry to minimize shrinkage and cracking. A heavy roof roller is then used to compact the earth as much as possible. By now it is possible to walk on the roof, which is beginning to feel more like a road than the top of a house.

Using a heavy roller, the second layer of dry dirt is rolled tight.

Water is then lightly sprinkled over the dry pack to compact it even further, and provide a moist surface for the final layer of wet earth plaster. The plasters are best applied in the afternoon, minimizing cracking by letting the roof dry slowly overnight.

The last layer of mud forming the roof is placed in a slope to direct the water towards spouts

The finish plaster is left to dry until cracks begin to appear, then is compacted with the roof roller. As with most aspects of traditional construction, TIMING is critical – the plaster has to be dry enough to avoid sticking to the roof roller (an early problem) yet moist enough to compact effectively.

Rolling the last layer of roof with the heavy roller

Maintenance of the houses is a necessary chore, not only to preserve the investment in these buildings but also to further our understanding concerning life in the First Century.

House maintenance involves annual re-compaction of roof plaster following the first autumn rains, using the stone roller pictured on the far roof, repointing the parapet walls and copings, and re-plastering the roof as indicated.

House roof after two years.

Finished roof - interior

Finished roof – interior

Finished roof - exterior

Finished roof – exterior